[ausev] Questions for the pros

[Rob]

Not as a universal rule, but for an EV with a top speed of 45.  AC motors
have a high top RPM limit so they are better suited for single ratio
operation.  The Tesla only has one gear - their switch from a 2 speed to 1
speed transmission was the cause of their production delay.

-----Original Message-----
From: ausev-bounces at austinev.org [mailto:ausev-bounces at austinev.org] On
Behalf Of evehicle4me at hischopsticks.org
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 6:42 PM
To: ausev at austinev.org
Subject: Re: [ausev] Questions for the pros


Are you suggesting that an AC system does not need a transmission?




Quoting Rob <rob at zehicle.com>:

> Michael,
>
> My own experience suggests that you'd be pushing it.  Best I got the 
> RAVolt to do was 30+ but I'm heavier than a Neon.  I'm confident that 
> you could get DC Pb conversion do this if you beef up the suspension 
> and run over the GVW with lots of lead.  However, you may find the you 
> lose the range after a year months of driving and you'll be short.  In 
> the winter you'll also lose range from the cold.  Remember that Pb 
> batteries fade so your return drive will be sluggish if you are at the 
> end of your range.
>
> Have you considered an AC system?  If your top speed is limited then 
> you'd be able to go direct and avoid the transmission loss.  You'd 
> also get a small boost from regenerative braking with an AC system.
>
> Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ausev-bounces at austinev.org [mailto:ausev-bounces at austinev.org] 
> On Behalf Of Michael Bonard
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 6:12 PM
> To: AustinEV News Announcements and General Discussion
> Subject: [ausev] Questions for the pros
>
>
> Dear Austin EV members,
>
> My name is Michael Bonard and I am writing from Maryland, in the 
> Washington, DC suburbs.
>
> I have started a conversion of an 2000 Plymouth Neon (2564 pounds curb 
> weight with ICE) and I am looking for recommendations from the pros. 
> Austin EV seems to be the most active group of EV conversion 
> enthusiasts, and this is why I am sending you this message.
>
> The "mission requirement" for my conversion calls for a 34 mile total 
> commute (round trip), mostly flat, top speeds no higher than 45 mph. I 
> would like to reach a 40 miles target to have some safety margin. I 
> have determined the preliminary system composition: 144 V system; FB1 
> 4001 DC Motor; and the rest TBD.
>
> I have the following questions:
>
> - Range: do you think that a 40 mile range could be realistically 
> expected with a 144V system using lead acid flooded batteries, which I 
> understand offer the least cost per kWh today?
>
> - Batteries: what type, manufacturer and make of batteries would you 
> recommend in a 144 V system?
>
> - Battery boxes: Is there an alternate acceptable solution to welding 
> of the battery boxes to the frame? I am not a welder but I can cut 
> steel angles and drill holes for nuts and bolts holding
>
> - Instrumentation: should I reuse the original ICE harness to connect 
> the speedometer to the existing on board computer? I assume that I 
> will have to remove the bulbs in the car instrument panel because with 
> all the ICE sensors removed, there will be lots of alarms showing up! 
> What other instrument panel functions can be re-used?
>
> - Controller: I want to make sure that the equipment I buy is of 
> decent quality. I need your recommendations for the controller: The 
> Zilla controller is very expensive and seems to need special cooling. 
> What do you think about the Curtis 1231C controller? Any other 
> recommendation?
>
> - DC to DC converter and battery charger: again, any suggestion?
>
> - Motor adapter hub: The EV book "Convert It" strongly advises not to 
> use the setscrew securing method for the hub. I have received a couple 
> of proposals with setscrew hubs. What do you think?
>
> - Clutch: some providers propose to remove the clutch; however, I am 
> concerned about having to change gears while going uphill (and there 
> is a hill to climb on the way back home). For me, it is not an option 
> to stop in the middle of the road to change gear. Your thoughts?
>
> - Should I keep the original power steering fluid cooling radiator? My 
> SWAG is that with the very low heat generated by the electric motor 
> system, there is no longer a need to cool the fluid. What do you 
> think?
>
>
> Thanks for taking the time to look at my questions!
>
> Your responses may also help another resident of Maryland who has 
> started the conversion of another Neon 2000. I will share your 
> responses with him.
>
> Michael
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>
>
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